help! Have an 81 in 300 sav with an all weather scope on a griffen & howe side mount. So, before I shot it the first time I made sure to level the scope so the knobs were lined up instead of cocked. Well, first shots were shooting to the right. I brought them over to the bull with adjustment of the post. Along the way extraction was faulty with frequent jams. Well, I found the answer to that problem here in the forum!, Thanks! You probably saved me from damaging my rifle as well as myself! So now the remaining problem; How in the heck do I sight this in? I'm wondering if, after tilting the knobs so the shells clear them, the post will still be on target. Can I make the needed adjustments with the scope tilted? And, when I'm finally sighted in at say, 100 yds; will the shot drift at distances closer or farther . If I went with a vintage redfield scope which models are best for this rifle? thanks for all your help!
Old Bear
model 81 scope problem
Re: model 81 scope problem
I see that your post has not been answered in several weeks.I don`t know if I clearly understand the problem.I am familiar with the G+H mount but is the scope you describe as All Weather a Lyman Alaskan or what?If the problem is the adjustment turrents getting in the way of ejecting shells you only have one alternative and that`s moving the scope or mount forward or backward while maintaining some degree of eyerelief.Tilting it to get them out of the way I guess would work if you shoot it like the gangbangers do on T.V. As to the proper alternate Redfield I would suggest an early 2 3/4 power Bearcub perhaps with the Kollmorgan name on it before they became Redfield.This would put it close to the age of your 81. Another alternative would be a Texan.The one inch tube Texans as do the Redfields have an aluminum tube and help with the added weight on an already hefty rifle. I have had the problem of sighting in with a side mount scope on a Savage 23D 22 hornet. This one has a Texan with a booster and had a heck of a time with it. Adjustments become more critical because these scopes don`t have permanent centered reticles so you end up with your post or crosshairs stuck up in a corner of the field of view.Shimming the mount to compensate for this is sometimes needed.A leather lace on pad(Think M1 Garand Sniper) to line your eye up helps also.Ah the fun with using 60 or 70 year old technology.
".......ain't many troubles that a man cain't fix
With seven hundred dollars and a thirty ought six."
With seven hundred dollars and a thirty ought six."
Re: model 81 scope problem
Hello OB. Could you share the answer to this problem as I have an M81 I put a vintage Weaver K 2.5 on and have not attempted to sight in yet. May be I can save myself some trouble. I have test fired the rifle and it functions fine with out the scope in place. From what I have read it could be an interesting time when I do check it out.old bear wrote: Along the way extraction was faulty with frequent jams. Well, I found the answer to that problem here in the forum!, Thanks! You probably saved me from damaging my rifle as well as myself.
Thanks
Re: model 81 scope problem
I can't say I fully understand what the problem is. However, if the empties are hitting the windage knob, you might be able to simply rotate the scope 90 degrees CCW, i.e., use the windage knob for elevation and vice versa - that is, if the mount will allow doing that. Therefore there is no adjustment knob sticking out to the right for the case to hit on its way out.
One problem with a side-mounted scope is that windage will be correct only at the range at which the scope was zeroed for. However, at hunting ranges of maybe a hundred yards or so, you could probably ignore the effect if you simply zeroed the scope at whatever maximum range game is expected to be seen. If the game is closer than that, your windage won't be off enough to matter. Under no circumstances would I use a M8/81 on game at any distance more than 150 yards, and preferably much closer. Therefore, I'd probably zero the windage at 75 to 100 yards.
The Gang-banger approach is an option. I have a Swiss K31 (requiring a scope to be offset to the left) with the scope crosshairs canted. When you cant the gun to the right, the scope is then directly above the boreline and the crosshairs are horizontal (elevation) and vertical (windage). It is a little awkward to use that way, but it does work surprisingly well when you get used to it, and it does prevent the wandering windage problem previously referred to.
One problem with a side-mounted scope is that windage will be correct only at the range at which the scope was zeroed for. However, at hunting ranges of maybe a hundred yards or so, you could probably ignore the effect if you simply zeroed the scope at whatever maximum range game is expected to be seen. If the game is closer than that, your windage won't be off enough to matter. Under no circumstances would I use a M8/81 on game at any distance more than 150 yards, and preferably much closer. Therefore, I'd probably zero the windage at 75 to 100 yards.
The Gang-banger approach is an option. I have a Swiss K31 (requiring a scope to be offset to the left) with the scope crosshairs canted. When you cant the gun to the right, the scope is then directly above the boreline and the crosshairs are horizontal (elevation) and vertical (windage). It is a little awkward to use that way, but it does work surprisingly well when you get used to it, and it does prevent the wandering windage problem previously referred to.