reblueing

[h.charlie]

I'm almost done sanding out all the pits and about to start sanding with 1000 grit to get that nice mirror finish, does anyone have a place they like to get things blued at? I would like it to be someone who is fairly familiar with the model 8 just so I know they will respect it and treat it right, also for some reason the safe stamp isn't all they from factory so if they engrave that would be a plus so it doesn't say safe with half the f and e on the side.

[Sarge756]

Charlie,
I can`t give you a recommendation as to a rebluer.That being said I feel you may find it difficult to find someone that will do it properly. Most commercial rebluers will want to hot tank it and you will end up with a too blue finish that will be an immediate tip off that it is a reblue. Sounds like you have done the hard work with the preparation and polishing so why not do the rest ? The outlay for the materials should be less than paying someone else. These rifles as with most firearms of the era were rust blued rather than hot tanked with chemical salts. You can do a rust blue and have it look much closer to original than having it done. The labor involved to do it is what keeps the commercial guys from using the process not the results. As to the mirror finish and thousand grit,with a rust blue I rarely go any finer than 400. During the process of the bluing and the burnishing of the metal the finish comes out very nice. If you are interested I`ll be glad to assist with any questions. Another member here also uses this process and the below is a post with photos of a Remington Model 11 that he restored.
Joe

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=3365

[h.charlie]

I'm fairly Unfamiliar with that process. Is that the use of slow rust blue chemical, de-ionized water carting and linseed oil? I have looked on the web and talked to a few buddies on bluing but most of what i find is not what i would like to try on a gun of this caliber.

[Headoftheholler]

That is my model 11 referenced above (thanks!)
You have gone this far, why not finish it yourself? Its very rewarding to restore a gun yourself. I started messing with bluing years ago, unhappy with owning great well built firearms that I got for a bargain because they looked trashed. After tinkering with various cold blues I ended up with Herters Belgian Blue which is a hot water rust blue, a finish that would be appropriate for a model 8.
The process is simple if not time consuming.
At first I didnt want to buy a steel tank so I made my own out of aluminum guttering with two endcaps secured with high temp adhesive. Later on I bought Brownells bluing tank ($50).
Set the tank full of distilled water accross a stove top, get it boiling or close to it.
Rifle needs to be degreased and handled only with latex gloves on, no oily fingerprints.
You let it soak in the hot water until hot, remove, apply the Belgian blue, back into the water
for 4 or 5 minutes, remove and card, (card with degreased 0000 steel wool or a ultra fine carding wheel chucked
in a drill press on lowest RPM's.
repeat, repeat, repeat.
Oil well when done.

[h.charlie]

I have been a little OCD on this gun it was my grandpas deer rifle used and abused but I have kept all the original factory parts some repaired with welds and filed , the only part that's not factory is one screw courtesy of 81police. My point being bluing scares the crap out of me that I will take a fine rifle and make it a giant turd, how hard was it to pick up how many trials would you say it took before you would try it on something you hope to pass down a few more generations?

[h.charlie]

here is a pic of where I'm at on the sanding thought it actual looked neat all silver Cant ever get enough pics of the great 8's thought I might try to lighten up the fore grip to match the stock, any thought on that?

[Phyrbird]

H.Charlie,
You might try this: (more work intensive)
Polish the fore-arm with 0000 steel wool.
Apply a coat of Trueoil (Birchwood Caseys) one drop at a time with your finger. The warmth of your finger spreads it thinner. This is period correct if not the original factory finish used.
Polish the fore-arm with 0000 steel wool.
Add another coat, thinner coats is better at this point.
If you like the results at this point more coats (8-20)will eventually fill all the pores in the stock to a mirror finish. If you prefer a Matte finish, a light buff with 0000 steel wool will get you there. This type of finish can give pleasing results with cross grain figure.
Using stain to match colors can be a B**ch, I urge caution till you've practiced with other materials. Notice at no point did I say anything about sandpaper, we like to keep things original
Good luck

[rem81auto]

IMHO, the wood looks perfectly fine. I would not do a thing to it.

[Sarge756]

Appreciate the photos of your 8. You look to have done a fine job with the metal polishing. Don`t be apprehensive about proceeding with bluing.It is not rocket science.Heck if I can do it anybody can. I sent you a PM with some info about the process and the products I use. If you have any questions just ask.
Would suggest that if you have a junker rifle or shotgun available that you begin by bluing it. Maybe just do the barrel or even a trigger guard. You will soon find that you can do it and with your confidence raised you will be ready to tackle your cherished Mod 8.
I agree that the wood looks pretty good. For one like that I`d try a good paste wax like Johnsons and polish it. Also after you complete the bluing you can use the Johnsons wax on the metal and gain an extra level of rust and moisture resistance.
Joe

[Roger]

Sir, I believe your wood looks good and age appropriate for your model 8. I would leave well enuf alone if i were you. Many of my guns( rifles and shotguns alike), have wood that has aged to different colors and or shades. It's pretty normal I would say. All my stuff is old, so i've got a large representation of guns ,and alot of them have wood that isn't perfectly matching. This is just my opinion, but just leave it alone.
Thanks for your time,
Roger