Original finish

[Forty Rod]

My apologies if this has been addressed already.

What was the original finish on the Model 8 and what approximates it today?

Thanks.

[Sarge756]

True, it may have been covered but can`t find it in the search so hold onto your apology. Original finish on the 8`s was more than likely varnish. You could always use a good spar but IMO better products are out there that are more durable , Refer to the post "Removing Oil Stains " in general info. Sounds like you may be planning a restoration.Don`t know what experience you have but if you have questions after reading that post PM me or PM your email.
Joe

[Forty Rod]

Sarge, I'm restocking my dad's 08. He had much shorter arms than mine and bobbed the stock WAY back and fitted a inch and three quarters recoil pad. I'll keep the original wood for sentiment, but am getting a new stock more to my size.

[Sarge756]

Starting with fresh replacement wood the"Waterlox" product I mentioned in the reply to the post "Removing Oil Stains" will work well and give you a finish that approximates the original . It is a bit pricey at $35+ a quart so if I was doing just one or two I would opt for another excellent sealer and finish. It is "Arrow" stock finish. I have used it on several and if you follow their directions you can`t go wrong. The final finish you obtain can be your decision based on the method of application. Everything from dull to piano finish being possible. It is available on line if you do a search for it. I have the Arrow stock cleaner that is offered in a two bottle set with the finish. It also works as advertised to spruce up old wood without a total refinish.

[texassako]

I use a recipe that is 1/3rd each boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and spar varnish. Think of it as a thinner homemade version of TruOil with a lot more UV inhibitors. Regular varnish and less mineral spirits would make it TruOil basically. I like it thin so I can creep up on the amount of shine I want and it soaks in well. All you need to put it on is a lint free rag, and it can be touched up any time. I put it on a .32 Rem Model 8 buttstock I had to repair and just about matched it to the forestocks look; so I believe the old finishes were something similar to this. Works good on woodworking and outdoor wood furniture as well.

[gcp]

I have used Minwax rub on poly in thin coats, on multiple rifles, with great success. I've recently tried tung oil and it too works very well because within a week one can apply a number of coats, to desired sheen, plus it dries hard and protects very well. But I am always interested in new more natural ways to try out so texassako, how long does your mixture take to dry and does it produce a permanent odor?

[DWalt]

Tung oil is my favorite. But a couple of cautions - just because it says tung oil on the can does not mean the contents contain a drop of tung oil. The real thing can be found if you look for it. I have owned a quart can of the real stuff for well over 20 years, and have lost count of the number of rifle stocks that I have used it on. Second, some small percentage of the population is allergic to tung oil. I have read that tung oil was the standard wood finish used by the Japanese on their military rifles. True or not I don't know. I once had a virtually new condition Type 99 rifle (with mum intact) that had a beautiful wood finish. I like to believe it was tung oil. It does help to thin it a bit with mineral spirits as it helps penetrate the wood and makes for easier application.

[texassako]

I have used Minwax rub on poly in thin coats, on multiple rifles, with great success. I've recently tried tung oil and it too works very well because within a week one can apply a number of coats, to desired sheen, plus it dries hard and protects very well. But I am always interested in new more natural ways to try out so texassako, how long does your mixture take to dry and does it produce a permanent odor?

gxp, you can reapply every 15 minutes if you want to, it dries completely in 72 hours usually, and it does not smell when dry. Rub it on until no more is absorbed, let sit for 15 minutes, wipe of excess, repeat. If you want to speed up the layer building, just use more varnish. It keeps a long time in a tight pickle jar, eventually some of the oil and varnish does settle out and harden. It can be touched up at anytime later without sanding. You can make a wiping varnish using tung oil instead of the BLO as well. I am working on the well handled stock of my M8 .25-35 now using it, but only 2 coats so far the last 2 nights.

PS. DWalt is correct, most tung oil finishes have no tung oil. They are just wiping varnish with varying percentages of ingredients and usually BLO as the oil.

[gcp]

Great exchange of info, thanks guys!

Don't know that I'll recoat my 81 as it's in pretty good shape but the finish being original, as old as it is, it may not hurt to coat the stock and hangurd a bit more for extra protection, if I am to take it into the woods.

This is one unusual rifle and I am so glad it fall into my lap, by sheer luck.

[DWalt]

One of my recent postings covered my efforts on a M81 Grade B stock. This particular stock finish was not abused or distressed, mainly dirty, and I did not want to strip it. I cleaned it by wiping it down with straight mineral spirits, then applied two coats (with 4/0 steel wool rubbing between) of a product called Watco Danish Oil Finish (Walnut), which is a drying oil. This is a thin consistency material that I applied with a paper towel. I then applied Johnson paste wax, following Watco label directions. It now looks great and retains its original aged appearance. See http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=46 By the way, I also went over all the metal with the Johnson paste wax, and it works well for that.

My first use of Watco DOF, about 25 years ago, was for refinishing a wooden case for a WWII Naval chronometer, and it really looks impressive, very elegant. I still have the same can of it.

[gcp]

My rifle's stock is very clean, with only minor scratches which I could lightly sand off but I won't. This will remain in its natural, weathered condition. Thank you for the Watco Danish Oil Finish suggestion, interesting product, I'll try it.

[texassako]

I am doing the same as DWalt on a 100+yo .25-35 M8 with only half the finish left. The steel wool rubbing out helps blend the edges of the original finish with the new I think. I like the hisory of the dents and bumps, kind of like my milsurps, but also want to prorect the bare wood. I am taking pics as I go and may post a series of before and afters once done, and coats 3 and 4 went on tonight. A bit more on the OP's topic, I also read that some M8's were special ordered with a factory oil finish. It would be interesting to see one and how it held up all these years.

[gcp]

Please post pics!

Some of my work on a Swede side by side Haski circa 1938: