looking for a gunsmith

[sliverflinger]

As stated before model 8 has a couple of problems. I'm not sure but it might have a headspace problem as well. What I think I need is a gunsmith to check the whole thing out, and tell me if it's a shooter or a wall hanger. Ideally one in the SW Wy. or N Utah area who has some experience with these rifles. What the hay it cost the same to wish for a horse as it does a pony. There's supposed to be a collectors show i Ogden this month, I may nose around there and see what I can find out.

[imfuncity]

Good luck finding an old time gunsmith that knows these rifles - on the other hand, any excuse to go to a gun show is a good excuse!

There is a lot of good information available right here on the forum - from what I've read these guys can pretty much walk you through a complete takedown and rebuild, that is if you are like me and know which end of the screw driver to use most days. And we would all highly recommend getting a schematic, best of all would be to get Henwood's book The Great Remington 8 and Model 81 Autoloading Rifles". Of course then with that much invested in a book, you'll have to get a few more rifles to justify............

[DWalt]

Unlikely you have a headspace problem if your parts are original. What are the symptoms?

[sliverflinger]

Cratered primers,light strikes and FTE. I had an older (he's a vet of the war before mine) gentleman tell me that the 117gr RN bullet was to light. I can't really see that as the problem. It looks like I'll just have to bite the proverbial bullet, and try taking the bolt out and apart. There is a nice video about taking the barrel apart on You Tube, but not one on the receiver.

[DWalt]

Those are not necessarily signs of headspace problems, and could be the result of other conditions. By FTE, do you mean failure to extract or failure to eject? Two completely different things having different causes. Was your ammunition factory or reloads? If old factory loads, that could be a contributor. Reloading your own could possibly solve all those problems.

Regarding headspace, it takes a LOT of excess to create a safety issue, far more than most people think. The real hazard is repeated FL resizing of fired cases from a chamber having excess headspace, as that can ultimately result in case head separation. In most cases, neck sizing only of fired cases will take care of any existing headspace problems, as the case will fill the chamber at first firing. Therefore, as long as you neck size only, the headspace excess from then on is essentially zero, as the case body is not being squeezed back to a shorter form upon reloading. Also, backing out the FL resizing die a little, just enough to keep from moving the case shoulder back, will work. In short, if you use brass that fits the chamber exactly, excess headspace can no longer exist.

I have found many people throw around talk about headspace, yet very few know what it means or understand it. Do a little research, it's not that difficult a concept. The best single discussion can be found in "Hatcher's Notebook," by Gen. Julian Hatcher. It's a classic and should be on every shooter's must read list. George Nonte's "Modern Handloading" is also excellent, and thoroughly discusses headspace as it applies to reloading practices.

I'll guarantee that having a gunsmith correct an excess headspace condition (if it even exists) with the M8/81 will be prohibitively expensive, money being far better spent on a better rifle.

Cratered (am not sure whether you actually mean "cratered," or if primers are backing out of the pocket) primers are normally the result of high chamber pressure, which may be the result of deteriorated/incorrect/excessive propellant. I have had several experiences with primers being completely blown out of the primer pockets on firing, mainly from very old ammunition that may not have been stored under optimum conditions, resulting in powder deterioration.

Have you looked at the videos on the home page of this site regarding disassembly? That should get you going if you want to tear into your receiver.

[imfuncity]

I'm (sort of) embarrassed to say I was a member here for some time before I realized clicking on the rifle at the top of these pages takes one to videos, gallery, etc. Plus, even though I have not been inside one of these receivers yet, I'm confident that these videos would get me in and out - based on the feedback I have read from those who have used them. Go for it Sliverflinger.

I am one who does not understand headspace and its issues, thanks DWalt and others for the helps.

[sliverflinger]

I hadn't noticed the videos either. That will be a big help. FTE for me is failure to eject.To me a cratered primer is one where material is pushed back into the firing pin opening in the bolt. The light strikes to me are either crud or broken parts. I'm praying for the former.When broke this down , it was clean enough to eat of, but who know what evil lurks in it's heart. Broken parts may lead somewhere I don't want to go. It's hard enough hunting parts for century old rifles that made in the millions. I have a vision of part for ones made in the thousands will be like.

[imfuncity]

Not to despair, all the issues I've seen reported and ask about here were resolved via cleaning, parts replacement, and/or correct assembly. Surprisingly most parts are still out there.

[DWalt]

Disassemble the action and clean/inspect all parts first to see if anything is amiss. You could have a mismatched recoil spring and/or buffer, but I don't know how to determine that. Could explain the failure to extract. Ensure firing pin is a good fit in the firing pin hole.