HELP, Model 8 problem

[sighthound]

HELP-Have an 8, 24M serial, 1924 vintage that will not cycle, when bolt is pulled back it locks and will not release and go forward. It will cycle if bolt carrier latch (part #29) and spring (part # 21) are removed and left out, however, could not be used or fired. I borrowed some parts from jack 1653 and tried replacing these parts and also barrel lock (part 130) to no avail, so problem must be elsewhere. Any suggestions, anyone? Guess I am one of those persons that knows just enough to be dangerous. Thanks, Jerry.
P.S. I have a Remington repair manual with illustrated numbered parts and schematic action and barrel drawings, if anyone would like copies, shoot me a SASE envelope and I will forward a copy. Jerry King, 3313 Camrose, Boise, ID 83706. Since I am barely literate with computers I can't do attachments.

[Sarge756]

Jerry,
Thanks for your offer on the manual.I will be sending you a SASE. I don`t have the answer for your problem but if it is not a broken part something may be missing or in backassered. You might go to the post by JONBEGOOD back in Jan " MODEL 8 Disassembly pics".It has excellent link to the 8 disassembly.Manuals are fine but the pics sure do help.If you havn`t seen it , may help you out. Hope this helps and Thanks again for the manual offer .
Joe

[Sarge756]

Thanks Jerry for the copies of manual and the additional photos and information. For those on the forum that have not taken advantage of his generous offer you are missing something.He also included some photos of some high grade Remington and Winchesters and a couple great cartridge displays that will be available from a friends estate. The information on Model 8`s includes photos and description of the military model 8 full stocked. He advised that he spends his days now recreating the full stocked configuration and included photos of some completed projects. "Two things come not again;The spoken word and neglected opportunity. Joe

[sighthound]

Have another disassembly problem, old 1910 25-35 on which the takedown screw will not budge, have tried penatrating oil although am not sure it is getting in to threads, tried heating with torch, maybe not enough. Don't think the lever would take very much pressure without damage. Suspect this gun may not have been taken apart for nigh onto 100 years. Wood is a disaster but metal good and functions properly. Here in the west guns show up that likely spent their time in sheep herders camp wagons or cowboy line shacks, carried and used daily in all sorts of weather but cleaned, cared for and well oiled back in camp and at the ranch.
Would appreciate any suggestions to help break the takedown assembly loose.
Thanks, Jerry

[Sarge756]

Jerry,
If you have only"applied" penetrating oil it indeed might not be reaching into the threads. I would buy enough "Kroil" (the oil that creeps) to emerse the receiver and barrel.To avoid having to buy gallons of the stuff (It is a little pricey) you can be inventive with the container.I keep lenghths of PVC sealed on one end in various diameters for these chores.Long shallow pans work too but take up too much room in my shop.I can`t stand them in a corner like the pipe.If the takedown screw is that bad you can rest assured the barrel assembly isn`t coming apart any easier . Stick it in there and forget it for a couple weeks. On your next try in addition to using the lever, the beveled knob where the lever is pinned is about 3/8 across the flats.You can try an open end wrench to assist but may have to fashion your own tool to reach across the flats and not crush the section of the slot unsupported by the lever. With the extra leverage of your tool or wrench ,with the receiver held firm in a vise it should move. You may also want to try tapping the receiver with a brass hammer to help the oil migrate into the threads.If the tool or wrench is fully supported across the flats you can try a few taps on it.No pounding! You mentioned heat.Heat is fine but you need to have cold to go with it. I would heat the portion of the receiver just in front of the magazine and both sides well with a propane torch.Apply the cold with a can of AC refridgerant directly to the bolt and then give it a try.You will need to get one of those DIY kits at the auto parts store.That`s an old mechanics trick for stuck head bolts. Hope one of these works for you. Joe

[imfuncity]

Great helps Sarge - will be waiting to hear about the results.

[sighthound]

Thanks Sarge for the help and tips, since I have mostly been a wood man am lacking in other areas but with your help am learning. Will let you know as soon as I get this baby apart, Thanks again, Jerry

[sighthound]

Mostly have asked for help, now have an item to pass on, not new am sure but recently needing butt stock for an 8 was looking at a cracked Browning A5 english grip (straight grip) stock and wondering if it could be adapted. It was easily fitted, a little wide at receiver but again easily trimmed. Also, Sile has made stocks for Model 8s, have one I found on GB, nice job, checkered, dog head plate, does anyone know of source for these? Thanks, jerry

[DWalt]

Great idea on using the A5 stock. I'd guess the Remington/Savage humpback stocks would also work with a little modification if the A5 stock does. I don't know if Sile still sells stocks, but about 10 years ago I bought a Sile buttstock for a Winchester Model 12 I picked up cheap because the stock had been cut down a couple of inches for use by a kid. The Sile replacement stock I got was magnificent, and I was very pleased with it. It had sort of a non-gloss finish as-received, so I went over it with some LinSpeed so it better matched the forend's glossier finish.

By the way, another old mechanic's trick to loosen a frozen threaded connection is to use soda (Coke, Pepsi, etc) instead of penetrating oil. I had success using that once. I'd now probably use a diet soda, or maybe Club soda, just to avoid the stickiness of sugar. It's worth a try.

[sighthound]

Recently noticed a post where someone was commenting on the thin split washer on some takedown screws, didn't register as to why, but today while making a new forearm for an 8 it dawned on me, the takedown lever has to play up and down rather than sideways when tight in order for the forearm to fit in place, so the split washer is only a shim so the lever will line up correctly. Bet most everone except me already knew this but in case not, a shim can make fitting a new forearm much easier. Jerry

[imfuncity]

News to me, thanks.

[Sarge756]

Jerry,
It`s been almost a month since your post on the takedown screw that wouldn`t budge.Can you give us an update on your progress? Joe

[sighthound]

As an old saying goes, I would procrastinate if could just get around to it, seriously though had some difficulty finding suitable piece of pipe and end cap, Kroil not available locally that I could find, delayed ordering online, rather spendy and hoping to find better deal, tried some spray on Blaster and Freezoff to no avail, waiting for some Kroil and suspect it will have to soak a while, other projects and am slow, but will get her done and will share experience. Thanks to Sarge and others for helpful hints, Jerry

[DWalt]

You might try kerosene as a penetrant to soak in for awhile. Much cheaper than Kroil, and it seems to work in my experience. Is available in gallon cans for camp stoves, heaters, etc.

I worked for a fellow at one time that made and packaged aerosol cans of penetrating oil, which he sold out of his car trunk to auto dealers and auto service shops. It was mainly kerosene with a red dye.

[imfuncity]

DWalt, interesting indeed. Based on the smell I often wonder if...? (I'll just let the wife use the red die for the 4th July cookies, while I... well made I'll try the kerosene tomorrow when it's only 103.)

[sighthound]

Thanks guys, know i'll get 'er done now, Jerry

[sighthound]

Update on stuck tackdown screw: Got 'er done, after soaking in Coleman lantern/stove fuel for a couple of weeks it came apart, sight screw still will not budge so it is back soaking some more, have not tried to remove barrel nut and will turn it around in solution and soak front end when get sight off. Thanks to all for your suggestions, Jerry

[imfuncity]

Cool. Patience wins out - again.